C2C Day 50 Little Falls to Saratoga Springs NY

After a great night in Little Falls (perhaps the best canal town we’ve stayed at so far), day 50 of this coast to coast adventure starts off cool and cloudy. The first trick is navigating the steep stairs from our third floor room at the Canal Side Inn.

Temps and air quality both in the 50s. The rain held off for most of the day, but made its appearance for the final 20 miles. Early on, the trail wound a bit into rock formations that create some cascading waterfalls in the area.

And one of these sharp rocks made its way into my front tire for the first flat of this 2023 segment. A special shout out to the Mohawk Valley Alpiners club for strategically placing a nice bench alongside the trail right where I needed it.

At several points, the ‘old’ abandoned canal would be on my right, and the ‘new’ active canal on the left. Here are a couple locks (I like to think of them as water elevators), one old and one new:

The best stop of the day was at a creek-side park, where Schoharie Creek meets the Mohawk River / Canal. Jax had a beautiful paddleboard ride amongst aqueduct ruins from the old canal. And we had the whole park to ourselves… except for the bald eagle that flew by low and waived hello while eyeing our lunch. The passing cars, trucks and trains were whizzing by too quickly to enjoy the beauty.

A nostalgic quote from a fellow passing traveler in this same area, as posted on a nearby interpretive sign, captured the sentiment we felt:

“The graceful winding curvature of the old canal, the meadows, and woods, the half-hidden church nestling among the leaves of its elms and pines, the neat secluded hamlet, the farmhouse… so disposed as to greet the eye of the passenger, will long be hopelessly looked for by him who flies through this scene” – James Fenimore Cooper, 1851.

C2C Day 49 Syracuse to Little Falls NY

Overcast skies, wet roads, and 61 degrees at today’s start in downtown Syracuse. Already warmer than all of yesterday, and no falling precipitation.

First stop, Green Lake State Park. Jax was hoping for an early morning paddle, but the pristine lake does not allow personal watercraft. The glacial lake is very deep and gets its unique dark green color from calcium carbonate, not algae. A strikingly clear and pristine lake.

Then a nice mid-morning stop at small town coffee & pastry shop in Oneida.

And then, back on the Erie canal trail. When lo and behold, the clouds departed and the Sun made a brilliant appearance. It warmed up to a balmy 75 degrees.

A bit of Erie Canal history we’ve learned on the trip: There are actually three generations of the Canal. The first iteration was referred to as Clinton’s Ditch – after a visionary NY Governor who championed the construction of the original canal from 1817-1825. People initially ridiculed the idea, but it was an immediate success that sparked westward expansion. The original canal was so popular, the US government decided to expand the canal in order to fit bigger boats and accommodate newfangled steam engines. The expanded Erie Canal was completed in 1862. Then, in a ‘last ditch’ effort to compete with railroads, the Canal was further widened between 1905 and 1918. In some cases, widening the canal meant relocating away from the preceding route. So some remnants of the earlier canal iterations remain intact, even though they may not be connected to today’s navigable Erie canal (which is primarily used by personal pleasure boaters).

All that is to say that the Erie Canal Trail is a beautiful 360 mile path that runs alongside multiple generations of the historic waterway.

And in some places, especially as we traverse further eastward, the canal navigates through rivers and lakes. Today’s final destination of Little Falls is an example where the Canal and the cascading Mohawk river both flow through the town.

Celebrating the sunshine and a successful 80 mile ride, the paddleboard was launched and a kayak rented from the Little Falls marina. Here’s to another great day on our coast to coast adventure:

C2C Day 48 Canandaigua to Syracuse NY

“Anyone can ride in the sunshine!”, a fellow biker from back home would cheerfully exclaim during a drenching ride. Yes, indeed, it takes a true cycling nut to ride in the rain.

Ontario Rail Trail

7am start. Steady rain. 50 degrees. Not ideal cycling weather. The Ontario County Rail Trail was first up, and it started out rather pleasant. I came upon a seasoned trail hiker who asked what I was doing out there in the rain. Good question. I asked her about the trail conditions and she said there would be some mud after a bend, more mud before a bridge, and some standing water after that. Unfortunately, she was spot-on correct. It was a wet slog into the town of Geneva.

Seneca Lake State Park sits on the outskirts of Geneva would have been a splendid spot for a paddle, but the weather did not cooperate today.

Seneca Lake

Onward to the Cayuga Seneca Canal Trail, which was in fairly good condition despite all the rain. I came upon a ‘wish rock’ clinging to a tree:

A wish rock

Holding the bright blue rock, I made a wish that it would stop raining.

It's a Wonderful Bridge

The next town was the lovely hamlet of Seneca Falls, thought by many to be the basis for the fictional town of Bedford Falls in the classic movie ‘It’s a Wonderful Life’. Jax and I met up on the town’s proclaimed bridge that stars in the opening scenes of the movie. Jimmy Stuart’s character (George Bailey) threatens to jump off the bridge before an angel changes his plan. Here, Jax provides a thrilling re-enactment. Perhaps most wonderful of all… the rain stopped as we were there.

Erie Canal Aqueduct

Not to seem ungrateful for the respite granted by the magic wish rock… but upon reflection, I should have specified a duration as part of my rain-stoppage wish. Like, “I wish it would stop raining for the next several hours”. Careful what you wish for! About 2 miles out of Seneca Falls, the rain resumed and would keep falling for the rest of the day.

A few miles from Syracuse, I passed over an 1842 Erie Canal aqueduct that has been beautifully preserved and restored. Jax snapped a pic from the creek view as I stand atop the well-engineered aqueduct that amazingly continues to hold the flowing canal waters.

After a wet and chilly 75 miles, we finally arrived in the metropolitan city of Syracuse with a finishing temperature of 59 degrees. With some luck, and maybe another wish rock, we’ll hope for dry and sunny weather tomorrow.

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